Day 48 - Camera Obscura and the dreaded midges

We had a really nice day in Edinburgh today. The kids got the bus into Edinburgh with their Grandparents and we all met up at Edinburgh's top attraction (as per Trip Advisor) - The Camera Obscura.

The Camera Obscura was started in 1835. It provides a 360 degree view of Edinburgh - projected onto a small wooden table in a darkened room. It was fun - as you can pretend to pick up people/cars etc on pieces of paper and move them around - which the kids really enjoyed.

There was also 4 floors of visual effects, holograms and fun expirements - including a great room for optical illusions. How much bigger than me does Olivia look!?

The sun shone as we had lunch just outside Edinburgh castle....

Our attempts at sitting outside and toasting marshmallows in the evening were eventually impacted by the Scottish Midge.

The Midge is now officially classified (by us) as the most dangerous creature on earth. We've had Grizzly Bears, Wolves and Snakes on this trip but nothing bites as much as the miniscule Midge. They were bad last night and no matter how much smoke we had from the fire or layers of clothing that we put on - they still got through.

Poor Jack got covered in bites but did not seem to mind too much.

We leave Edinburgh today and head South to Newcastle for a few days.

Ken

Days 45, 46 and 47 - we really hate jet lag

Flight to London was OK - only 10.5 hours and Jack slept for most of it.

Got through Heathrow customs and baggage collection in 20 minutes - a new World Record. Finally squeezed our bags into the hire car - they don't make estate cars as big as they used to and we were off....6.5 hours and 390 miles later arriving in a cold, rainy Penicuik (just South of Edinburgh).

That was Sunday. It is now Tuesday evening. We saw some sunshine today...briefly.

Now at this time of year in Scotland it does not really get dark. I can confirm this for an absolute fact as each night from about 2am to 5am all of us have been wide awake. We've never had jet lag like this......

We are all craving sleep....fingers crossed for tonight.

Ken

Day 44 - Goodbye America

Well it's been quite a journey - and I am not just referring to the terrible traffic on the way to LA Airport!

I've lost track of the miles driven, hikes completed, pictures take and memories obtained.

Emma organized one hell of a trip - all I had to do was drive and write this Blog.

I am guessing that quite a few family and friends have been following this - mostly lurking and not commenting - but doing so in good numbers as we are about 2,800 views on this Blog in the last month or so.

I write the blog so that family in UK know what we are up to. I also get a thrill from the fact that in 30 years or so, Our grandchildren may find this blog via google or something similar and enjoy hearing what we did.

We had a good last day in America. Kids played in the pool as we packed. Then a final trip to In-N-Out Burger and a drive to Santa Monica. We'd stayed there 13 years ago. It had changed a little but not much. We hired some bikes and headed down the boardwalk to Venice Beach and all the 'weird' people that hang out there. A good end to our trip.

Despite the traffic and US security we are now sitting at our gate. Boarding shortly.

Next it's the UK for 10 days for me, almost 3 weeks for the rest of the Reid family. I think it's raining - so typical summer weather....

Better hope the bag of warm clothes makes it to London.......

we have loved the USA. Hard to find any faults. BUT please can you start including sales tax in your prices! I'll forgive the cheese on every dish if you can sort that out....oh and adopt the metric system....

Ken


Ken

Day 43 - what were our Top 10 highlights

It has been an amzing trip. All credit belongs to Emma for organising the route and the activities (except the Chuck Wagon dinners).

It's been hard reflecting on the highlights as the start in Death Valley seems a very, very long time ago. We've already forgotten a lot of this trip...but photos and this Blog will help us remember.

So highlights. Jack struggled to write his down, so lets start with Olivia.

1. Playing with Aussie (Kris and Paul's dog)
2. Holding the birds that Kris and Paul own
3. The Space Mountain ride at DisneyLand
4. Going to SeaWorld
5. Picking oranges and making organge juice with Paul
6. Going bike riding in Boulder
7. Swimming in all the pools/spa's/rivers
8. Seeing Tournament of Kings in Las Vegas
9. Playing with a baby kitten at Paul and Kris's
10. Driving through Titus Canyon.

A bit of a short term memory issue with Ms Olivia....but clearly the last few ays in LA have been a hit!

So, on to James. Surely her enjoyed the views, wildlife, museums, history, culture that we spent SOOOO much money on....

1. Seeing Tournament of Kings in Las Vegas
2. Going to DisneyLand
3. Going to SeaWorld
4. Playing with Aussie the dog
5. Diving of the board into the pool at Paul and Kris' house
6. Going to Circus Circus in Las Vegas
7. Playing with Jacob and Victoria in Torrey (random other kids)
8. Horse riding
9. Doing the maze in Jackson
10. Bike riding in Boulder

And what of the organiser of this trip - Emma:

1. Driving Titus Canyon (after the flat tire bit)
2. Seeing Le Reve in Las Vegas
3. Walking into the Grand Canyon
4. The Baby Bath Tubs walk in Ouray
5. Wagon ride and dinner in Jackson
6. The views of the Grand Tetons
7. Antelope Canyon
8. Durango
9. SeaWorld
10. Cycling in Boulder

Some overlap with the kids, but not too much.

So, me. It's hard to just pick 10 highlights, but here goes:

1. Antelope Canyon - simply stunning and unique
2. Walking into the Grand Canyon - the scale blows you away
3. Walking onto the Salt Flats in Death Valley - 300 feet below sea level
4. Seeing Grizzly Bears
5. Seeing a wolf pack take down an elk
6. The views of the Hoodoos in Bryce Canyon
7. Le Reve in Las Vegas - a truly amazing show
8. Seeing the Killer Whale show in SeaWorld - childhood dream...
9. Dinner in Durango - best steak in many, many years
10. Having Jack look me in the eye and say "Daddy"

I am sure as we put together photo albums and the compulsory book of the trip we'll all change our minds.

There will be a final US entry tomorrow, from the airport. We plan on spending the day at Santa Monica tomorrow before getting on our 8pm flight.

Ken

Day 43 - Hollywood.....and terrible traffic in LA

It's not the end, it's just the end of the begining.

Tomorrow (Saturday) we fly to London to begin Leg 2 of this epic journey.

Today we thought we should try and pack to make sure all the extra things we've bought actually fit into our bags. I am relieved to say they do, just....but it took Emma all morning to achieve our 'packed' status.

While Emma packed I had a whirlwind tour of the local Country Club and managed to squeeze in 3 holes of golf. The golf started well - reasonable drive down the left, decided to go for the 215 yard second shot over water to the Par 5 green. Hit the 5 wood crisply, thought it was looking good for right edge of green....but SPLASH...just short. Sorry Paul for losing you ball!

After packing and golfing it was time for 'sitting in the car' - which seems to be a popular LA past-time. It's so popular in LA that they have built loads of Freeways that have up to 9 lanes in each direction - all so that you can sit in your car and not move, or move slowly and get very, very frustrated. While it's obviously popular in LA we did not really enjoy it. The kids hated it....

Anyway, getting into Hollywood was not too bad. On Paul's advice we headed to the oldest restaurant in LA (started in 1908). It was Philippe's Dipped Sandwich Bar. It was incredibly busy and REALLY GOOD (great tip Paul).

We then started the LA pastime of sitting in traffic....eventually making it to Hollywood so we could have a 30 minute wander around Kodak Theatre etc. and see the 'stars' on the sidewalk. It was pretty hot today, so wandering around was about as much fun as sitting in the traffic.

So back into the car to continue the local pastime of working up road rage.

Almost 2 hours.....many, many arguments and fights with the kids later...we got back to West Covina.

Not our best day.

Good Chinese food though to end the day (thanks again Paul) and the kids are enjoying a final swim in the pool as the Hummingbirds buzz around us.

If you are wondering where Top 10 lists are...read the next post.

Ken

Day 42 - The magic of Disney......

.....kinda wears thin when you are into your 27th hour in a theme park this week.

After 14 hours in Seaworld we started slowly at DisneyLand - arriving at 10:00am. Having experienced Hong Kong DisneyLand with no queues it was quite a shock to get here and see signs for rides with "85 minute wait" - and people actually waiting in line.

We were clever though and used the 'fast pass' system, (it gives you an allocated time for the ride to avoid queuing) grabbed a ticket that said 11:20. Great I thought until Emma pointed out it was 11:20PM!!!!!!

After that start it got better. A women told us it was a quiet day!!!! I reckon we each did about 16 rides - James did the most. Jack got on about 6 - he loved shooting Aliens but was a little scared in the Haunted House.

James and Olivia loved Space Mountain the most...and did it twice.

It was a long day and on balance I think we preferred SeaWorld......and Hong Kong DisneyLand with no queues.

Not sure if we can face Universal Studios tomorrow.....

Ken

Day 41 - shopping and back to LA

Now in case you are finding the blog is running out of steam - tomorrow we'll have each of our Top 10 experiences so far....should be a good read!

Today we drove North to Carlsbad and a shopping mall where everything is discounted. We now have the challenge of finding space in our cases for 4 pairs of shoes and lots of clothes. The pair of sunglasses Emma bought will be no problem as she will have lost them by Saturday afternoon.

We are now in LA - staying with Paul and Kris Blackburn - who have been great hosts. I am suffering a little from over-eating at the local Mexican restaurant (which was excellent) and the kids are having a great time in Kim's bedroom saying "Is that really Kim in the photo - she looks so young!".

Tomorrow is DisneyLand.....yippee......

Ken

Day 40 - San Diego by land and sea

Today was a chill out day.

Lazy start to the morning then into town to get on The Seal - a bus that is also a boat. It drives through town explaining history of San Diego then drives intonthe water and keeps going as a boat tour. Very clever.

On the boat tour we saw a pod of dolphins and loads of sea lions.

After we went to Old Town - an area of San Diego recreated in a Mexican style - reflecting the original ownership/culture of this area. We were looking forward to a great Mexican lunch, real Mexican in a nearly real mexican town.

Well the "Old Mexican Cafe" was rubbish. Without doubt the worst meal on this long trip. Bland, greasy....the best word to describe it is CRAP.

I can still taste the grease 9 hours later.

An afternoon and evening exploring and San Diego is done. Tomorrow we drive up to LA (stopping to shop at Carlsbad) to stay with our good friend Kim Hoffman's parents for 3 nights. I hope they realize how much Jack screams in the night......

40 days gone - hard to believe. It all seems like it went really quickly now.....

Ken

Day 39 - A childhood dream fulfilled

No, I did not get to play centre court on the opening day of Wimbledon yesterday....but when I was about 8 years old I got a comic book on holiday that was all about the Killer Whales in SeaWorld, San Diego. For the last 34 years or so I have really wanted to go there....today we did.

We had heard mixed reports about SeaWorld but I was determined to go.

Well, after over 14 hours there I think I can say we really enjoyed ourselves - despite the astronomoical cost.

The animal shows are really something, we have just seen stunning performances by:

- 4 killer whales
- loads of dolphins
- lots of seals
- an Otter
- 50 dogs
- quite a few cats
- 2 pigs
- a kangaroo
- 2 emu's
- a few talented humans

The Killer Whales were the highlight for me. They are huge animals and seeing the flip out of the water - all in perfect time to the music - is quite something. We saw the Killer Whale show twice - the last time at 9:30pm which was like a Rock Concert with fireworks at the end.

The opening of the Killer Whale show was really good - a 3 minute video of a little girl ends with her turning round as the music reaches a crescendo and a huge Killer Whale bursts out of the water. I could not co-ordinate our kids that well - never mind 8 tonne animal.

Emma liked the Seal show - was quite funny and well put together.

The Pet show was a surprise. Performing pigs, cats, Kangaroos, Emu's joined the many dogs doing tricks on stage - really well done.

As well as Animal shows SeaWorld has quite a few 'rides' and other attractions. James loved the rollercoaster and other rides - most of which you get VERY wet on. Olivia hates scary rides but I convinced her the rollercoaster was OK and I'd hold her hand. Well at the end when I looked at Olivia and she was crying and shaking with fear I felt kinda bad.....I don't think she'll trust my judgement at Disney Land later this week.



So a huge day. 14 hours at a Theme Park is very hard work....

We are planning a relaxing day tomorrow exploring San Diego.

Ken

Day 38 - Long Way Down

Today was quite simple. Get in car, point South, press foot to floor and get to San Diego.

We left Vegas in a blustery 90 degrees (at 9am) and got onto I-15 and realised that it was going to be a long day - traffic was hell.

Today is Fathers Day in the USA and UK (not in Australia). It seems like every Father had been in Vegas for the weekend and was now heading home.

It's hard to find highlights on a day of 330 miles of driving.....

It was interesting as we approached LA to see the line of smog. It is slightly concering that we are probably now sitting in and breathing in that smog.

My personal highlight of the day was when a Delorean Sports Car (Back to the Future) passed us on the way into San Diego. I had never seen one of these legendary cars on the road.

Emma's highlight was finding a group of people practising for a Flash Mob they will do next week at a San Diego fair. If you don't know what Flash Mobs are go into YouTube and search for Flash Mobs.

James & Olivia's highlight was 90 minutes in the swimming pool.

Jacks highlight probably was not when he face planted off the sun lounger on to the concrete. He now has a lump on his head and a scratch or two. I am told it was my fault.......

So San Diego - nice town, so far looks and feels like Sydney.

Tomorrow off to SeaWorld to see Dolphins and Killer Whales....

Ken

Day 37 - Zion to Las Vegas..Sanctuary to something very different.

Our last day in a National Park. Our last day in the 'wilderness'.

Zion means Sanctuary. The Mormon settlers must have initially thought they had found paradise. Stunning scenery and a constant water supply. After a few years of trying to grow crops here the regular flash floods that took away the crops became too much....and they gave the land over to the National Park Service.

We did two really nice walks.

First of all we caught the Zion shuttle bus (you cannot drive in the park) to the start of the Emerald Pools walk. This pleasant 3 mile hike took us to a series of pools, fed by water that falls down the 1,000 feet or so of the canyon walls. It was getting hot (90 degrees) so we were glad a lot of this walk was in the shade.


Next we boarded the shuttle bus to the end of the Zion Canyon to do the riverside walk. At the end of this walk the canyon is about 10 metres wide. In the summer you can walk along the river further into the canyon until the walls close in and it's only about 6 feet wide - but 800 feet tall. As the water flow is so high at this time (snow melt) we were not able to do that - but it was a good walk anyway.

One final Ranger Badge completed by the kids and it was time to say farewell to Zion...farewell to Sanctuary and hello to LAS VEGAS.....the complete opposite to the natural beauty and tranquility of Zion.....

On the way to Vegas we stopped in Grafton - a ghost town and scene of a bit of classic movie making. For those fans of Butch Cassidy & The Sundance Kid - we visited the house where they filmed the "Rain Drops Keep Falling on My Head" scene where Paul Newman rides a bike around a field....

Our US route is a figure eight shape. Las Vegas Boulevard turned out to be the cross point in the trip.

With the advantage of an hours time difference we rolled into Vegas about 3:30pm in 104 degree heat. Perfect timing for a swim then a big Vegas night.

We had not booked a hotel but got lucky with the Platinum Hotel (just off strip) where we got an enormous suite, which had a fireplace, two TV's an bath the size of most peoples bathrooms and a kitchen. Excellent choice Emma!

A BIG Vegas night for the Reid family involved:

1. A walk through Paris Paris
2. Another trip to the Cheesecake Factory for dinner
3. A brisk wander through Ceasars Palace and the Forum shops
4. Finally, the Treasure Island Sirens show (it was cancelled twice 4 weeks ago)
5. Another two viewings of the Belagio Fountains
6. ICE creams
7. Home at 10:00pm

Much to my surprise, Emma has quite liked Las Vegas. After three days we have done most of it - and would quite like a 'grown up' visit next time to really enjoy the shows/tables/restaurants.....

A full-on day - lots of walking - in Canyons and later in a recreation of a Paris street.

Tomorrow a long, long drive to San Diego.

Ken

No photos as WIFI not too good.

Day 36 - the last National Park....

We rose early and after a quick breakfast headed back into Bryce National Park for a walk in the Hoodoos.

When we started our 2 hour walk it was quiet and we really enjoyed the lack of tourists as we descended into the Canyon. The Hoodoos close up are just as amazing as from the canyon rim. They are made by water freezing and knocking off bits of rock. The park Rangers are worried about global warming - as if the winters are not as cold the Hoodoos will just erode into sand dunes - rather than forming bizarre sculptures.

We walked through the Queens Gardens where there is rock which viewed from the right angle is the spitting image of Queen Victoria - it really looks like her. We then joined the Navaho trail to head back up to the rim - quite a climb along a series of tight switchbacks.

When we had started it was pretty cold (7 degrees) but by the time we got back to the top of the rim it had warmed up to 15 degrees and we were sweating from the climb.

Another really nice walk and a great way to leave Bryce.

So we drove on to our last National Park on this trip. We've done Death Valley, Grand Canyon, Sedona, Arches, Lake Powell, Custer, Monument Valley, Yellowstone, Grand Tetons, Bryce and many more that I have forgotten. It felt a little sad as we drove (eventually into Zion).

I say eventually as after 36 days and probably 6,000+ miles we took a wrong turn. This was caused by the fact we were busy looking for a pie shop rather than the turn off to Zion. The pies were good (Chocolate Cream) but the 34 mile detour was a little annoying. Emma has still not accepted responsibility....

Anyway, Zion. I won't say we saved the best to last, but I will say that from what we have seen this afternoon, Zion is another amazing National Park. Much more rocky than others and equally as dramatic in its own way.

We enjoyed another short 45 minute hike to a great view point and then made our way through a tunnel (blasted in 1927 so that tourists could get into the park) to enter Zion...and find our hotel and it's pool.

It was mid-80's this afternoon so after 2 hikes and a 130 mile drive we were ready to have a swim. A pleasant hour or so followed with James & Olivia in the pool, Jack playing on the lounger and Emma & I enjoying a cold Corona...all against a stunning backdrop. Bliss.

We've just got back from a great Thai restuarant and I am sitting outside of our motel room looking at the sun setting on the rocks of Zion National Park. I think it's going to be a good sunset and an amazing sky tonight - it's pretty clear.

Tomorrow we plan a few walks then a long drive South. We've almost finished the scenic part of this trip - next it's San Diego and LA - Sea World, DisneyLand and Universal Studios.....

We've had an amazing 36 days in the West of the USA. We're already talking about the highlights and what we'd do differently if/when we come back.

But still a week to go....so keep reading!!

Ken

Day 35 - Just when you thought you'd seen it all...along comes Bryce Canyon

But first - we spent the morning in the 'surprising' Capital Reef National Park.

We did the 10 mile 'scenic drive' which was REALLY scenic and then had a two mile walk to see some more Indian carvings and 100 year old grafiti.

The grafiti was written by early explorers to let people know they had been in these canyons. It was quite fun seeing "Joe Smith, 17 July 1882" carved on the wall. It made us wonder if in a few hundred years the current grafiti on walls will be viewed by tourists with as much interest....

Another good walk set us up for another 'scenic drive' to Bryce Canyon. On route we had another picnic lunch in yet another great canyon and watched a group of cowboys drive their cattle along the road. We are enjoying being back in Utah and back in the heat. Another 80 degree + day today - great for picnics and sitting by the river.

The last few days have seen the first signs of fatigue on this trip. I guess that after 35 days that is not too surprising. Capital Reef NP and Torrey perked us up as they were not expected. So today we had a little more energy and really enjoyed the morning walk and drive to Bryce.

Now - Bryce Canyon.

Bryce, Zion (tomorrow) and Grand Canyon (3 weeks ago) are all part of the same geological area. We are kinda back where we started and I was expecting Bryce to be just a smaller version of the Grand Canyon. Well I was wrong.

Our first view was nothing too special. A great canyon, great views - colours more orange than Grand Canyon (which was red) but once you've seen as many canyons as us...you get a little blasie....

Our second view changed everything. The Hoodoo's are what Bryce Canyon is all about. They are truly amazing and unlike anything we have seen in all the other canyons. We were all simply stunned.

Indian legends tell of a Tribe of 'bad people' who lived in this canyon who were turned to stone as punishmnet for being bad. Geologists tell of unique sand stone layers or rock weathered by rain, ice and wind over millions of years. Who ever is right - the end result is amazing.

Tomorrow we walk down into the canyon and we cannot wait to see the Hoodoos from that perspective.

This evening we enjoyed another Rodeo - this time without the torrential rain.

Yet another full day. 9 days to go....

Ken

Day 34 - relaxing in Torrey and the unexpected Capital Reef National Park

A fairly relaxing day.

Slow start, late breakfast, bit of shopping (nappies etc) and then a quick 180 mile drive South to Torrey. We were a bit uncertain what to do today - stop in Torrey or keep going towards Bryce Canyon.

After a drive through some great landscapes, a picnic lunch in a park we arrived in Torrey. Torrey is a single street - but it is a great street. A few nice motels, a couple of shops, all tree lined with a stunning backdrop of red cliffs of Capital Reef National Park.

As soon as we saw the pool at our Motel we decided to stop in Torrey. We then spent a pleasant 4 hours by the pool in 82 degree heat. The kids swam and played all afternoon and had a great time. For the first time in a month they played with other kids - which they really enjoyed.

After dinner we decided to explore Capital Reef National Park. We had never heard of this park before but a quick read of the guide book made it sound pretty good.

It was amazing. A real surprise. We only had an hour or so but had a great drive through park and marvelled at the rocks and scenery.

The park was once home to a group of Mormons - 1880'ish time. They planted a load of orchards which are still thriving. Now as a National Park the orchards are maintained and still produce a lot of fruit - which you can help yourself to as you wander around. Sadly for us nothing was ripe yet but we did see a few deer in the orchards.

We also saw some amazing Petroglyphs here - petroglyphs are rock carvings made by Indians. The ones we saw tonight were over 1,000 years old and I thought were of spacemen...see what you think.

So a surprising and beautiful park - worth a visit.

Tomorrow - Bryce Canyon.

Ken

Day 33 - back to warmth and the Mormon Temple

With a smile on my face I packed away our warm winter coats and we set off South towards Salt Lake City.

We left Jackson this morning where the temperature was about 3 degrees and we are now sitting in Provo (just South of Salt Lake) where the temperature is 25 degrees. 12 years in Sydney may have made us soft - but we definetly prefer the warmer temperatures.

It was a pleasant 270 mile drive South - through Wyoming, Idaho back into Wyoming and ending in Utah. I don't think I have a 'warning' in any of these states so it was foot to the floor to get to Salt Lake quickly.

Salt Lake has to be the most clean, quiet, organised and BORING city we've been in on this trip. Everything just screams 'organised' at you. Cities should be chaotic and busy....Salt Lake is far from that.

We went straight to the Mormon Temple area. Had a nice lunch and wandered around the Temple gardens, information centre and Tabernacle. All very interesting but a bit too religious for me.....Emma and the kids enjoyed it.

We had the company of two Missionaries for 30 minutes who talked us around the main sites. Each Missionary spends 18 months at the temple acting as a guide to tourists. Ours were from Los Angeles and Zambia.....not sure which of them was most suprised by Salt Lake City.......

Anyway, after three hours of Salt Lake we could feel the life draining out of us so we jumped in the car and headed South to Provo....which is marginally better.

Photos today are from yesterday....

We still have 11 days to go in the USA but there is a sense that we are on the home stretch. Heading South feels like 'going home'. But still Bryce and Zion to come in the next few days followed by theme parks and shopping in San Diego and LA.

Ken

Day 32 - horses and more Country & Western

Our second day in Jackson. A nice but expensive town.

It was raining so we headed to the OK Coral in the hope of sunshine and friendly horses. We found both and Emma, James and Olivia saddled up and headed off for an hour of horse riding through the local area. Meantime me and Jack got a coffee and sat in the sun.....bliss.

This was James and Olivia's first time on a horse - they loved it!

Next back into Jackson and the "Jackson Maze" - a simple maze - find 4 stamps to mark your card and get out. I got out in 9 minutes, James 12 minutes and the girls (with Jack) in 17 minutes. It was fun. Later in the day James and Olivia tried again and got out in 7 minutes. Fun.

We then decided to take a chair lift up to the local mountain and walk down. This was the SLOWEST chairlift ever. It took 20 minutes to go up say 1,000 feet. At the top the views were impacted with dark clouds and rain heading our way. We started down as the rain began. Deep snow, Jack on my back, freezing winds......fun. We made it down eventually - Emma and Olivia both fell and got muddy. The boys were more sensible.

For some reason Emma booked us into 3 "Cowboy" shows on this trip. Tonight was the third. The minor variation on the theme was that we were taken to our "cook out" in a wagon - pulled by horses. Then we had the usual food + Country music. It was not too bad and the kids loved it and at one point got on the stage. On the way back they both got to drive the wagon.

Another long and full day.

No photos as I am typing this on the iPad.....

Tomorrow we drive to Salt Lake - back into warmth....forecast is for 25 degrees.

Ken

Day 31 - Grand Tetons to Jackson Hole

When we arrived at the Jackson Lake Lodge we were blown away by the views. As you walk into the lounge there are 50 feet high windows that show you the Grand Tetons at their best. The Jackson Lake Lodge was a great place to stay. Oldie Worldy feel to it - it hosted a peace summitt between the USA and USSR in 1989....lots of stuffed animals and big fireplaces.

When we walked into the lounge this morning it was like I was back in Scotland. All you could see was rain and clouds. You would never have known what a view there was behind the clouds!

But a rainy day did not deter us. We headed to Jenny Lake, boarded a 10 minute ferry and hiked up through the snow and rain to Hidden Falls - which were at their peak flow. Much of the path was deep in snow - up to 6 feet - and James and Olivia loved it. This holiday has been their first real time in snow. They just love throwing snowballs and rolling around in it. So much so, that by the time we reached the falls, James was soaked through and despite being cold - was still smiling.

This area gets on average 191 inches of snow each year. This year they got 700 inches - 60 feet - or 20 metres........The lake we went over only thawed out two weeks ago....it's been a tough winter here.

It was a good walk - in the rain.

We then headed towards the town of Moose - where we saw a Moose and then on to Jackson - our stop for two nights.

We've just had a relaxing few hours - wandering through the town (very expensive art galleries and clothes shops) and enjoying a burger dinner while watching Dallas win the NBA finals.

Ken

Day 30 - nature in all its raw glory

We started the morning with a final trip to Old Faithful. It was raining so the kids enjoyed a Ranger talk in the visitors centre and we saw another eruption and then headed off.

We were planning a fall to Mystic Falls. On route we found this guy -

This good size male Grizzly was chewing on the head of a dead Buffalo. We were one of the first cars to stop and watch him. Quickly there were about 50 people watching. The bear was about 50 yards off the road and seemed to not mind us all as he continued to pull bits of the skull.

After 5 minutes or so he looked up, sniffed the air and started to run. At first I thought he was running straight towards us (as did most other people) so there was a panic as everyone sprinted for their cars. Thankfully the bear starting running away from us - at quite a pace.

With our heart racing we set off for Mystic Falls. We parked, organised the kids & Jack, got some snacks and set off for this 3 mile hike. 500 yards in there was a sign "Trail closed due to Bear activity - DO NOT ENTER". For once we obeyed the sign. Having just had a close encounter with a Grizzly (did you see his claws!) we did not want another one.

So we headed out of Yellowstone, having seen 50% of the worlds Geysers, towards the Grand Tetons.

If Yellowstone was unique The Grand Tetons were simply stunning.

A series of mountains rise up from the lakes and form jagged peaks. As we arrived the sun came out and the views were amazing.

We had a walk along the edge of Lake Jackson to take in the views and look for animal footprints in the mud. James has a guide to animal footprints (and their poo) so we worked out there had been Elk, Buffalo, Deer and Wolf along the edge of the lake.

We stayed night at the Lake Jackson Lodge - a fantastic location. Perched on the edge of Willow Flats and with views to die for, we sat and enjoyed a beer/gin & tonic as Elk and Deer wandered beneath us. With the help of the binoculars we spotted a black bear and a few Moose.

After dinner we went for a drive to find more wildlife. For a while we saw lots of Elk but were hoping to see something more exciting. So we headed up to the top of a nearby mountain as the sun was setting.

A few corners in and a Grizzly ran in front of the car - we missed him easily and enjoyed watching him run through the woods. Onwards, up into the snow line until we got to the top of the mountain.

As we got out, a group of photographers were getting into their car and said "You just missed a pack of Wolves take down a baby Elk - it was awsome."
We were gutted to have missed this so sauntered up to the viewing platform hopeing to at least see the wolves.

Well, we got lucky. Although far away (500 yards) we got a great view as the mummy Elk returned to help her stricken calf. The wolves were not happy and started attacking the large Elk. To escape the Elk run into a lake - up to her knees. The Wolves kept attacking and the Elk fought back until a stand off emerged. The Elk standing knee deep in water and 6/7 Wolves standing on the shore - just waiting....

This photo has been blown up - so the quality is poor. But you can see the Elk in the water and 3/4 wolves near her. On the waters edge another 3/4 wolves wait.

We spoke to a local guy who was watching all this who explained the wolves do this for fun. They don't eat the Elk - they just leave them to die and get eaten by birds/bears/coyotes. The Wolves were re-introduced about 10 years ago and there is a lot of controversy about them.

We just thought it was amazing to see nature at its raw best.

On the way down the mountain we had an encounter with a Grouse and a Black Bear.

When we finally got to bed we thought we'd had quite a good day as nature goes. The restaurant manager in the hotel had been working there for 3 weeks and not yet seen a bear. In our last few days we had see 4 Grizzlies + 1 cub; 2 Black Bears; 2 Moose; a pack of Wolves; hundreds of Elk and Deer and lots of Squirrels, Chipmunks, Eagles. We think we did well.

Ken

Day 29 - Bears, Geysers and a tough Elk

While at breakfast this morning there was a great comotion with lots of people running to the windows and pointing towards a hill. There was a Black Bear, wandering around - which we all enjoyed watching.

We headed off for a day of walking round Geysers and hoping to spot lots of wildlife.

We had a good start - with an several Elk and their young calves. They were a long way off - so the binoculars came in handy. Onwards to LOTS of Buffalo - which are everywhere in Yellowstone. Buffalo in North America once numbered 60 million (no lie) and fell to only 50 (yes, 50, 1 more than 49) in 1902. Since then they have recovered and there are 3,000+ in Yellowstone. They must have been the easiest animal to hunt - basically walk up to them, point gun at head, shoot.

Lots of waterfalls and geyser walks today. Yellowstone has more geysers than hte rest of the world combined. Each geyser has its own unique colours/rocks formed by years of erupting. They were very interesting.

We eventually got to Old Faithful - the most famous of the geysers. Old Faithful erupts every 92 minutes. It is fairly predictable. Most other geysers erupt every year or so. There are a few that are every 5 minutes, or every 14 hours - +/- 3 hours. You need to be patient to see geysers erupt - except for Old Faithful.

We got a great spot....on the balcony of the Old Faithful Lodge (huge wooden hotel). We enjoyed sitting in the sun (it was only 4 degrees today) with a beer watching Old Faitful do her thing. Right on queue at 4:02pm she did her thing - spurting water and steam 100 feet in the air for about 4 minutes. Cool.

Lots more walking and trying to avoid Buffalo and another 90 minutes later another show from Old Faithful. This time we were on the opposite side...and got wet as the wind blew the eruption towards us.

At dinner tonight we met an Elk. He was cooked 'Medium' and in the form of a Burger, with bacon and blue cheese on top. I advise you NEVER to try Elk if you can avoid it. It's tough as old boots.

We are into our 5th week now in the USA. The fast pace continues tomorrow as we enter the Grand Tetons - which many have told us will be the highlight of our trip.

Ken

Day 28 - Yellowstone National Park and Grizzly Bears

Finally we headed into Yellowstone - entering at the East Gate. The road had only been cleared the week before and there was a lot of snow as we climbed up into the Park.

We had to drive through this sort of snow.

We were wondering whether we'd actually see much wildlife - Yellowstone is famous for its Buffalo, Bears, Elk, Moose etc.

Well, within minutes I screamed "Bear" as we came round a corner. A Grizzly was wandering along the side of Yellowstone Lake (which is still frozen over). We stopped the car and watched the bear - she was about 400 yards away and walking towards us (and 20 other people and a Ranger).

She wandered ever closer and disapeared behind a bush. The Ranger said what we all thought "In a momemnt she will appear just in front of us and you all need to get in your cars quickly." Well, about 10 seconds later the call rang out "Everyone in your cars NOW!". The Grizzly wandered behind our car as we marvelled at this amazing beast.......which is kinda scarey and you are supposed to stay 100 yards away from them.

What an exciting start to Yellowstone!

Onwards, another few corners and "Bears!".

This time another 200 people had also found this Grizzly and her cub. They were walking through the scrub with a hundred camera lenses following them. It was manic - but the bear cub looked really cute (according to Emma and Olivia).

Onwards, our first Geysers. We got out the car as the snow started - it was heavy and very, very cold. The Geysers were good though.

On to Yellowstone falls. We wanted to do a walk but had been told the walks were closed as there was too much snow. Rules have never been that important to us, so on we went through the snow in search of the walk we wanted to do. We waded through snow that was 3-4 feet deep and found the patch. We climbed over the "Do not enter - Danger" sign and headed down 350 steps to see the falls. We were rewarded with a stunning view of the falls - and a very hot and tiring climb back up!

A great walk.

We meandered through the Park seeing lots of Elk and Buffalo. On route we were slowed down by two avalanche/land slides and had to stop every few miles for yet another stunning view/waterfall/geyser/animal. We eventually got to Mammoth Hot Springs - our stop for the night around 4:30pm.

We had a great walk around the Geysers and Hot Springs here - lots of colourful rock formations. Hard to do justice to in a blog or a photo.

Another long day but a great first day in Yellowstone.

Day 27 - Cody - The Worlds Greatest Rodeo City

We spent today in Cody - named after Buffalo Bill Cody.

This morning we wandered around a re-created old town, seeing how early settlers lived and seeing the cabin that Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid hid in in "Hole in the Wall". It was moved log by log and re-built here. Emma and I enjoyed this attraction - it meant nothing to the kids.

A bit of a touristy day today as next stop was a Minature Town - some guy has built minature models of life in the old west - complete with Cowboys and Indians fighting and buffalo roaming the plains. It was free and informative.

After a quick game of mini-golf (where we discovered Olivia cannot count as no matter how many shots she took, when asked she said her score was "3") we went to the Buffalo Bill Museum.

This was another great museum - five exhibits covering Yellowstone National Park; Buffalo Bill; Plains Indians; Cowboy Art and the history of guns.

We got through the first three. Very informative and well put together.

Buffalo Bill was clearly an amazing guy - but how much of the stories about him are fact or fiction is not clear. This is acknowledged in the museum as he quickly became a Western legend and had to live up to the hype all the time.

Tonight I had to sit through another hour of Country & Western music (just survived) and then we went to the RODEO!

The Rodeo was great. It was freezing cold and pouring with rain but that did not dent the spirits or enthusiasm of the riders. We saw lots of bucking horses and bulls. People catching cows with lassoos and all sorts of fun stuff.

The highlight was when all kids under 12 were invited into the arena. It was pouring with rain, but James got out there. 3 young calves were released that had red flags attached to them. 15 kids charged around the mud trying to grab a flag of the calves. James had a great time, came close to getting a flag and got very wet and muddy. What more would a nine year old boy want!

We just got home - 10:30pm - a late night for us. It's raining still which means it will be snowing in Yellowstone. Should be fun tomorrow.

Day 26 - Back to snow and Buffalo Bill territory

We are in Cody tonight - just outside Yellowstone.

Our morning started with a short drive to SpearFish Canyon and a great walk to a waterfall. The sky was blue and the sun shinning - but it was blowing a gale - so it was a bracing, but fun.

We continued our drive West towards Yellowstone, gaining height all day. Passing through Buffalo and heading up into the Mountains to once again be in the snow - this time toppping out at 9,966 feet. The snow here was not that fresh but still substantial. We had a quick stop at a frozen lake and threw some rocks on the lake to try and break the surface. The lake was clearly melting fast around the edges and the rocks sunk in a good 6 inches or so....so we decided not to try and walk on it.

Onwards for a total of 380 miles today - a long drive.

We are in Cody, home of the famous Buffalo Bill Wild West Show. We arrived just in time for another 'gun fight' - it was raining and the cast of this gun fight had concocted an incredibly complex script for their gun fight. At the end of it we had no idea what had been going on - but half the gunmen were lying dead.

It's cold and wet here tonight. Tomorrow we explore Cody then it's into Yellowstone. The roads in just opened properly this week - so we are hoping for no more snow.

Ken

Day 26 - quick update on Jack

Jack is enjoying his first overseas trip and is generally behaving himself.

His scars are almost gone from the tumble in Arches National Park.

Most importantly we (being me, James & Olivia) think he said his first word this week, which of course was "Dadda". Emma is not convinced.

He spends many hours each day now babbling to himself...lots of "Da, Da, Da" type noises. He is clearly communicating with me - Emma is in denial until he says "Ma, Ma, Ma".

Ken

Day 25 - they are all going so fast now...in Deadwood...with scurvy

Today we left Wall and headed to Deadwood - an infamous Western town.

En-route we stopped off to see a few bears. We drove through the Bear County USA park expecting to see a couple of scrawny bears in cages - instead we found at least 50 bears roaming around for us to watch. The Bears were on good form - wandering around the cars, lazing at the side of the road and lots of them were busy mating - which got a lot of questions from James....

We have some great photos of the bears milling around the car but the wi-fi access here is not the best.

In addition to bears we saw Elk, Reindeer, Wolves, Big Horn Sheep, Skunks and all sorts of other US animals.

Next stop was Cosmos Mystery Mountain. This is a series of huts built into a steep hill. In each hut there is great optical illusions that mean James could pretend to be superman, Olivia could appear to be taller than James, water could flow uphill etc. It was lots of fun and James in particular loved it.

We finall got to Deadwood around 3pm. Deadwood was once the largest gold producing town in the USA. It boomed in the late 1800's. This is where Wild Bill Hickock and Calamity Jane both died - Bill was shot in the back of the head while Calamity Jane died of liver failure after years of alcoholism and prostitution - not quite like the Doris Day version of Calamity Jane I had in mind....

Deadwood was 'dead' until about 1989...when the town decided to introduce gambling. The main street is now a series of casinos. All quite tacky and a little sad.

We did a bus tour around town which was TERRIBLE.

We then had dinner at a restaurant owned by Kevin Costner. Now if you are a movie buff you'll know that Mr Costner has a funny movie history - occasionaly he pulls of a Dances with Wolves or a No Way Out. But then there is also lots of Waterwolds, Bodyguards and the like littered through his movie career. Having eaten at his restaurant in Deadwood I suspect somewhere else he has a really good restaurant he owns....this one was his 'Bodyguard' of restaurants - a great cast, lots of hype, but lacking substance.

Tonight we are staying in the Strawberry Hill B&B - a lovelly house about 3 miles out of town.

I am starting to worry about Scurvy. After 25 days in the USA we've realised that vegetables are clearly in short supply here. On tonights menu I do not think there was a single vegetable - unless deep fried onion rings count. We are starting a challenge to find a menu with lots of veggies on it....watch this space.

Our first 25 days have flown by.....despite a full itinerary the time is just flying. In a few days time we get to Yellowstone and then 'turn back'....but still 19 days to go before we fly to the UK.

Ken

Day 24 - Badlands, Wall and Road Kill status report

We had a leisurely start to this Sunday in South Dakota. We headed North towards The Badlands.

The Badlands are yet another area of stunning natural beauty. They are barren, eroded mountains - surrounded by lush green grass plains. The contrast is amazing. Roaming the grass plains are Bufallo, Deer and Big Horn Sheep plus millions of Prairie Dogs (Emma's favourites).

We started with an hours walk - in 85 degree heat. It was a good walk but we all got very sweaty.

We walked up through a canyon to a view point to look down over the valley. On route we had to climb up a 40 foot wooden ladder - not easy with Jack on my back!

Later we had an easier walk with Jack in the pram...

Slightly concerning on all todays walks were the signs saying "Beware Rattle Snakes". We think they were serious.

We really enjoyed Badlands - it exceeded our expectations. I think we benfited from the 2 weeks of torrential rain they had here before we arrived. Everything is lush and green rather than dry and brown.

Around 4pm we left Badlands and headed into Wall, South Dakota. Wall is a small town whose claim to fame is "the largest drug store in the world". The Wall Drug store is a legend in these parts. It's a maze of stores, cafes and tourist tack. We loved it - had some ice cream, bought a Wall t-shirt and baseball cap and tried hard to stop the kids wasting all their pocket money.

We eventually thought we should find a hotel - so we are in the Sunshine Motel for $49 tonight. It's basic but perfect after a long hot day.

We just had a glorious steak dinner and Olivia just bought herself a pink Stetson - so watch out for lots of cowgirl photos in the next few days.

Road Kill Update

We've probably done over 3,000 miles so far and Road Kill is hard to avoid. So far we have said 'goodbye' to:

1. A large Rabbit
2. A very small Chipmunk
3. A billion flies and insects
4. and today - a 4 foot long Snake.

We almost added a Deer to the tally - but a combination of the Deers speed, a quick swerve into the left lane and frantic braking meant we missed the Deer by about 6 inches.

Day 24 draws to an end. We are not getting tired of this trip. It is full on, no 'down days', every day something else to visit. Another 20 days of fun is before us - we cannot wait.

Ken

Day 23 - Long walk, Mount Rushmore and a Gun Fight

We needed some exercise today. Three weeks of deep fried food is taking its toll. It's hard to find a vegetable on most menus and I think we've had a few too many burgers and side orders of onion rings so far.

So, back into Custer State Park for a 6 mile hike. We started at Badger Clarke Hole and set off on a loop that would take in three other trails and bring us back to our starting point. It was a glorious walk in lovely country. We had hoped to see a lot of wildlife but had to settle for lots of chimpmunks, a wild turkey and 3 deer. Not bad - but we were expecting to stumble upon herds of buffalo and a few mountain lions. We did find mountain lion tracks - so they were there.

After some 2.5 hours and a short cut at the end we got back to the car - glad to have got some exercise, but ready for lunch.

Lunch was a burger in Keystone (Hey - we had earned it!). Next was a chairlift ride up to the top of Keystone and for James, Olivia and Emma - a ride down on a tobogan. For me + Jack - back down on the chairlift. It was a long ride down and there were huge smiles at the end. Olivia who had been a little scared at first actually wanted to do it again!

Onwards to Mount Rushmore. Having seen Crazy Horse yesterday I was a little unsure about Mount Rushmore - but I was pleasantly surprised and very impressed.

Mount Rushmore was originally planned to be a series of statues of Wild Bill Hickock and other cowboys - it would be a tourist attraction. Instead the commissioned artist decided to make it a monument to American history - rather than just a wild-west relic.

The results of 14 years and 400 peoples efforts are significant. It's quite something seeing (another) statue carved out of a mountain. There is good information sites here and we learned a lot about American history - particularly the French and Spanish claims to American land and the timing of when the USA actually came together.

We ended today in Hill City for dinner. By chance we saw a gun fight. 6 old gun slingers wandered down the street looking for whisky and women and ended up shooting up the town until the sheriff stepped in and killed them.

The highlight was when James was asked for a Quarter. He nervously gave the cowboy his coin and watched wide mouthed as the cowboy threw the Quarter in the air and shot a hole straight through it.

James had to pick up the Quarter and show it to the crowd.

James is chuffed. He wanted me to spend time with him searching for the bit of the quarter that was shot out.....I convinced him it would be very hard to find.

Another full day. Onwards tomorrow to Wall....

Ken

Day 22 - Jewel Cave, Purple Pies and Crazy Horse Monument

I will try to reduce the number of typos and gramatical errors today - I must have been tired last night!

We are spending three days in Custer to allow us to explore the Black Hills region. This part of South Dakota has historical importance and based on todays visits will be an important part of American culture in about 70 years time.

We started the day at Jewel Cave - the 2nd or 3rd longest cave network in the world - depending on which brochure we read. The caves stretch for over 150 miles. We walked through about a mile of them.

Now we've seen a lot of caves in our time - the amazing Jenolan Caves near Sydney, caves in Vietnam, France, UK, Greece and many other locations. We are not cave experts but we know our stalectites from our stalecmites.

These caves were a bit of a disapointment. They were pleasant enough but nothing special. They are 'dry' caves - so very few stalectites or statelgmites were on show. It was a nice 90 minute trip....but will not make our Top-10 things to do in South Dakota.

Onwards to the Purple Pie Cafe for lunch. This much hyped pie shop was another BIG disapointment. Firstly there were no savoury pies. So we all opted for the 'Mac and Cheese' - "Just like your mum used to make.". Well if our mums had made this we'd be very sad. It tasted like Laughing Cow Cheese, melted with Double Cream with some pasta thrown in. I like rich food - but struggled to get through half a bowl.
The Cherry Pie & Ice Cream was OK.....just.

So, an average morning. On to the Crazy Horse Monument.

Tomorrow we are visiting Mount Rushmore - the carving in a mountain of the four Presidents who were seen to have done most for the first 150 years of American life. Well the Indians were a little put out by this carving - celebrating American life in the middle of the sacred Black Mountains - so they commissioned an artist to carve an Indian equivalent - to show that the 'Red man' has heroes and great stories to tell as well.

The artist (a Polish sculputre) started work in 1948. He died in 1982. His family are continuing his work. They are sculpting a mountain into a stature of Chief Crazy Horse, astride his horse pointing out over the Black Mountains - reflecting his famous quote "My land is where my people are buried."

Once (if ever) completed it will be the largest sculpture ever made. The Mount Rushmore presidents would fit into Crazy Horse's head. The whole you see in the photo (blasted out about 10 years ago) is 10 storeys high.

The head - which was completed in 1998 (40 years after starting) is 87 feet high. Next they are working on the hand/arm and horse head.


The end result will look like this.

At 587 feet tall and 641 feet long it will be stunning. It will dwarf the largest pyramid, the Spinx, the stature of liberty etc. The fact that somebody started a project in 1948 that would consume his life in the knowledge that he would never see it completed is quite something. He started with a mountain - and has now removed 8m tonnes of rock. He mostly worked alone - only now is there teams of people starting to work to make quicker progress. It is all self-funded. 7 of his 10 children are continuing the project.

Crazy Horse was chosen as an Indian who never gave up. Never lived on a reservation, never signed a treaty. He was a warrior chief who was stabbed in the back by an American soldier while meeting under a white flag.

I am not sure if the chiefs who commissioned the work in 1948 really knew what they were creating. The plan is to have an Indian University and Museum at the base of the mountain.

I found it truly inspiring.

Emma's mum (Janet) visited here in 1960's - Janet - I'd love to know how much different it looks now...close to 50 years later.

After Crazy Horse we had a pleasant walk around a lake, a scary drive through the Black Hills - and a tunnel only 8 feet wide.....we have a big car so it was tight.

We have reached our half way point and have started week 4.....

Tomorrow Mount Rushmore.

Ken

Day 21 - Another puncture, Mamoths, snakes, Bison (or Buffalo) and Deer

Today we woke up in our Cowboy Suite in HotSprings, South Dakota.

First challenge was to get Jacks pram repaired. He had a puncture so we had a quite visit to the "Ricks Auto" to ask for help. Rick smiled and got his 'boy' to assist. I have to say they were excellent - if you ever have a pram malfunction in South Dakota - head to Ricks. Within 20 minutes the pram tyre was repaired and the $6 charge was great value.

Next stop was the Hot Springs, Pioneer Museum. This is an old school house building where everyone in South Dakota, it seems, has donated something old to make a museum. Now in my view, it was three floors of junk with the odd intersting artefact. In Emma's view it was a fascinating glimpse into how things used to be in the late 1800's through to 1930's.

Next stop was the Mamoth Site. Now we were expecting to see one mamoth - and lots of tourist tack. What we found was a series scientific site. This 'sink hole' was about 150 feet wide and contained about 60 Mamoth skeletons. It was quite remarkable. It was educational, interesting and quite fascinating to think that 27,000 years ago a load of (Male) mamoths got too close to this steep sided water hole - and fell in. It was only ever teenage males that fell in.........my theory is that the females were given a map to find the water hole but got lost....

We had lunch in a diner that seemed to be using the same furniture as we had seen in the museum earlier. Emma was excited about "liver and onions" being on the menu. I was scared.

Foolishly I orderd Roast Beef Sandwich with Gravey and Mash. It was a Roat Beef Sandwich - covered in Mash Potatoes and Gravy - cannot criticise really. Emma claimed to like her Liver and Onions but I think she was just being stubborn as I told her it would be terrible.

Onwards to work off the lunch....to Cascade Falls. A beautiful stopping point. Local hot springs mean the river that feeds into these little falls is always 22 degrees - all year round. The kids and Emma enjoyed a swim while I played with Jack.

We were the only people there at first until 2 or 3 other families joined us. It was perfect...until the 5 foot long snake appeared - just where the kids had been climbing. Now my philosophy with snakes it to leave alone - that way they won't bite me. One of the other families had a philosophy of "Lets stand in the bushes, barefoot and root around until we find the critter...and then kill him."

Thankfully despite best effots over a prolonged period of time - they did not find the snake.

Onwards we went to Custer State Park - home of 1,300 Buffalo.

We loved our drive through this park. The rolling hills reminded us of parts of England or Scotland - but it was 85 degrees and there were Buffalo. Around every corner there were Buffalo or Deer or Prairie Dogs (Emma's favourites). It was glorious.

We are now in Custer - a very small town. Emma just ate a Buffalo burger.

We are almost at our half-way point in the USA....going quickly but we have done a lot. Over 2,000 miles so far and soooo much fun.

Ken

Day 20 - Good morning officer and $8.99 all you can eat Chinese

We started today in Colorado and headed North towards South Dakoto, via Wyoming.

We'd only been in Wyoming for a short while when I had my second experience of US Law Enforcement - and again it was pleasant and informative. In fact, Highway Patrol is becoming an information service for us.

After seeing the Dodge Charger come screaming up behind me with lights flashing and siren blaring I slowed down from the 95 or so and pulled over. The conversation followed the now standard pattern.

"Sir, license and registration please"

"Sorry officer, I think I was going a little over 75"

"Yes you were - where Y'all from?"

We then had a coversation about the route we should take, how he liked Fort Laramie (See below) and how we should be wary of Deer who were "jumping in front of a lot of cars this week."

The warning we received gave the kids something to write about in their journals. I refrained from asking for a photo - although his Dodge Charger looked brand new and very cool.

On we went at the 75 mph speed limit to Fort Laramie. This Fort was an imporant part of American history. It seems to be the place that American politicians first learned to break promises - for example:

1. Sign a treaty with the Indians, invite 10,000 indians to the ceremony to celebrate the occasion....a while later tell them Congress did not agree so all bets are off again.
2. Sign another treaty, agree to give the Black Hills to the Indians....oh, but then discover the Black Hills have Gold, so sorry, treaty ripped up.
3. Decide Indians are just too hard to deal with so organise an infantry to go out and kill them all..

Quite a tragic place really. Important as some real and lasting agreements were reached here with Chief Sitting Bull and other Indian leaders. Important as most Wagon trains came through Fort Laramie on route to the West. It had been restored so you could see what the houses/shops were like. The kids enjoyed it and got another badge.

Next off to Hot Springs for the night. We stayed the night in a kinda weird bed and breakfast. We were in the Cowboy Suite - the decoration was all Cowboy memorabilia......quaint or weird....it was a tough call.

It was comfortable though.

We walked a 10 yards to the Chinese next door for dinner. $8.99 all you cna eat buffet, $4.99 for the kids. It was pretty good and a nice end to a long day.

350 mile today - one of our longest driving days.....

zzzzzzzzzzzzzz

Ken

Day 19 - Denver - best museum ever!

Another relaxing and fun day - this time in Denver - Colorado - The Mile High City.

Denver is small. The population claims to be 2.5million - but we think that covers Boulder and the surrounding areas. Downtown Denver is like Plymouth - on a small scale...small.

But size is not everything - and Denver was good fun.

We started with the Childrens Museum - initially we thought this might be a little young for the kids (first exhibit was a fire-truck) but we soon discovered the woodwork section where James started to build a wooden 'man' and Olivia (with my expert help) made a Turtle out of wood, an egg box and some imagination. An hour later after much drilling, sawing and screwing of screws - James had a man-like wooden figure. It is actually quite good in a modern art, wood craft kinda-way.

Next stop was lunch and our second visit to the calorific Cheesecake Factory. This is a great place to eat if you want to die of heart disease at a young age. We loved it. But might have to ration future visits.

Now on to the Science and Nature Museum - which in Lonely Planet got barely a mention - but in our opinion was the best museum EVER!

We only had time for two exibits - Planets and Health.

In the Planets section we spoke to a man on Mars, travelled the universe, docked the space shuttle and examined metorites.

In the Health section we each got our own personal credit card. At each exhibit you used it to log details about yourself - your heat rate, how fast you cycle, how long your stride was etc. It was great fun and very educational. The best section was the labratory where we all put on white coats, rubber gloves and goggles and did an experiment to work out the % sugar content of two cereals - Cheerios and Captain Crunch.

We had to mix the cereal and stir it in a special magnet stirrer. Then it was on to the centrefuge to seperate the the sugars. Then into a special sugar content measuring device....to work out that Cheerios had 2% sugar and the Captain Crunch was 5%.

This was a great thing for the kids. They felt like real scientists. It was a great set up in this museum - wonderful staff and great equipment.

IF YOU ARE EVER IN DENVER GO TO THIS MUSEUM.

A relaxing night at a Mexican restaurant followed.

Photos will follow - the kids in labcoats are great....but Emma has left her camera in the car!

Ken